Firewall - interim update

Just so I can keep from being accused of neglecting this blog, here are some shots of what's been happening recently.......

As can be seen, I've dropped the shell off the rotisserie as I need to dummy fit the engine and can't do that while it's up on the spinner.

But in order to test fit the driveline (to complete the firewall), I had to finally receive my......

• Tremec TKO 600
• Quicktime bell housing
• Flywheel (lightened)
• Clutch (11 inch, plus hydraulic throw-out bearing)
• Reduction starter
• Rocker covers
• plus various miscellaneous parts

As can be seen above, these allow me to "button up" the block enough to keep it sealed from dirt & humidity yet have the outside dimensions in place to form the firewall and trans-tunnel.

Pictures of first attempted "engine fit" are shown below. There is just under an inch of clearance from the top of the shock towers to the rocker covers.

I can drop the engine down anther inch or two and still have the bell housing sit high enough from the ground - after I cut out some of the dry-sump where it contacts the rack & pinion setup. As I'm having a front and rear sump scavenge system, scalloping the centre section slightly is no problem.

The tall rocker covers fit over the stud girdle. It's a tight fit in terms of engine bay width - but it fits non-the-less. The shot above shows how far back I can set the block for better weight distribution.

However, I am seriously considering fabricating some "sliding" engine mounts to push it back a further 2 inches (once I drop it an extra inch after the sump mod's). The motor would then slip back in under the lower cowl panel nicely. Sliding mounts would then let me slide the engine forward quickly when I need to lift the rocker covers.

Anyway, lot's to do now in terms of "Metalwork 101" to get the firewall sheetmetal right.

Regards, Spiderman.

Installing the RRS steering rack

I thought this would be worth a small post while I wait for the under-dash pedal box.....
Here is the RRS rack I just received & unpacked. It comes complete with the universal-joints, telescopic steering shaft, bearings and all the goodies to modify the steering column as well.

And here it is an hour or so later after it bolted right in with no dramas at all.

As per the instructions, all I needed to do was drill 4 holes (2 each side) in the lip of the chassis rail and in it all went.

One thing I have noticed is that the rack bolts in right where the chassis lip is recessed (cut back) to give clearance for the inner rear edge of the tyre at full steering lock. We will see if there is any interference later I guess when I put on my chosen rim/tyre combo. At least the steering bump-stops are adjustable on the rack so I can ensure I can stop the tyre hitting if there is a problem. But of course I'd rather get as much steering lock as possible so hopefully this wont be an issue.

The rack & struts are just dummied in place so I can get the shell rolling to do the firewall. I need it rolling so I can put the motor in - and I can't do that on the rotisserie!